Effective, affordable treatments are available.
Protecting your trees against Emerald Ash Borer is simple with an every-other-year trunk injection.
An effective and proven Emerald Ash Borer treatment has now been on the market for many years. The verdict is in: it works.
Initial impressions of the ability of this treatment to work well in Colorado, with our challenging conditions for trees, have been extremely positive as well. Treated trees in Boulder can now be seen to stand healthy in stark contrast to adjacent untreated, dying trees.
With Emerald Ash Borer moving ever closer to the Fort Collins area, now is the time to take action.
How I do it different
When you hire ArboRx to treat your ash tree, the only person administering any treatment is myself- an ISA Certifed Arborist with many years experience. I have worked in the tree care industry my entire life and have already injected hundreds of trees. Experience is important in performing tree injections; it's a delicate process that requires experience to get right.
Although we call it a tree injection, it's really more like a drip IV. We can't force the treatment into the tree, the wood has to "drink it up". If the applicator doesn't get every part of the injection right, often times the tree will simply refuse to take up the solution, meaning it won't work.
Several different tree micro injection systems are now on the market, but they are not all equal. I have chosen the Q Connect system. Although it costs twice as much as the next leading injection system, I believe it is worth it. One advantage is that the holes drilled in the tree are much smaller: .23 inches. Compare that to the most popular system which requires drilling holes either .28 or even a whopping .375 inches.
The smaller injection holes have been proven to cause significantly less wounding and decay and "heal" more quickly. Industry standards recommend using the smallest drill hole practical.
There are a lot of little technique tricks I have picked up over the years regarding tree injection. Some of these are prescribed industry standards: using a small injection drill hole and a clean and sharp drill bit (I change mine about every five trees), injecting as shallow as possible (about .5" to 3/4" on ash), as low on the trunk as possible or even directly into the roots etc.
Some techniques are not published and only come from having performed many injections in many conditions. Temperature, sun, wind, soil moisture, time of day and other factors all come into play when performing a tree injection. If conditions aren't right, the tree will not take the injection.
There are other aspects to doing a good job, and they run the range from being on time, to admitting when a mistake has been made and taking responsibility. And somewhere in-between, a professional arborist should tell you when a tree is not going to benefit from an insecticide treatment and what your other options are.